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>You’ve Got Moles In Your Lawn?

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I’ve noticed these little holes in my lawn, surrounded by dirt pilings. They are signs of either moles or voles. Since we live in Florida, where voles doesn’t usually burrow in, we probably have moles.

I’m told they are a real menace to lawns, and now I’m witnessing the damage they do, especially in my neighbor’s yard to the north. Some time ago they stopped watering and as a result their lawn isn’t rich and green as ours. They have a large area ten yards square where there are numerous holes. Now the moles have started scouting out our premises and the one to the south of us.

Moles eat worms and other insects, voles eat vegitation. I’m not an expert but the material I’m printing above will indicate we live too far south for voles. But with global freezing, anything is possible. The cooler weather up north may have forced the vols down south. As you will see, they look like field mice, with short tails and fat bodies, small eyes and covered over ears. They don’t see well above ground, but feel, smell and touch to see where they’re going. If you have voles and moles hapitating together, they use each other’s tunnels which can go 100 feet at a place.
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There’s only one sure-fire way to survive
mole attacks in your yard ‘n garden…

Kill ‘Em Dead!

If that’s not your “cup of tea”… if you just love the nasty little rodents… if you’re content with those dang pests invading your yard and messin’ it up… then what follows isn’t for you.

BUT if you’re ready to finally do something positive to control moles for good, this may be the most helpful letter you’ll ever read…

Hi. My name’s Brooks Owen. (Folks around here call me “Grandpa.”) That’s me in the picture showin’ off my latest catch at my ranch near Battle Ground, Washington.

I hate to admit it, but for years there were more moles trashin’ my yard and garden than you could shake a stick at. Flower beds tore up. Dirt mounds were everywhere. Even chipped my mower blades runnin’ over them dadgum dirt piles.

If you’re havin’ mole invasions like that in your neck of the woods, I’ll share with you how I finally solved my mole problem once and for all by using a simple, sure-fire method.

Perhaps like you, over the years I’ve bought nearly every goofball “remedy” and tried every half baked idea that came down the pike. Such as…

thorny rose branches • broken glass • red pepper • bleach • moth
balls • human hair • castor oil • sonic blasters • mini-windmills
razor blades • chewing gum • pickle juice • vibrators

Good grief!

Beyond all those things, I’ve even tested…

harsh chemicals & explosives & poison bait & car exhaust

I gotta tell you, none of that hogwash worked. Never has. Never will. Next day, the pesky creatures come back. More mounds. More damage. Besides, it’s crazy to even have some of that stuff around because they’re unhealthy and hazardous to your kids and pets.

What’s more, poison baits, “secret” tonics and other such malarkey being peddled like snake oil off the back of a horse-drawn wagon can be dangerous and are cruel to the mole, to boot.

And so-called “remedies,” such as noxious potions and noise makers that may temporarily drive the unwelcome critters out of your yard into the neighbor’s, don’t address the real problem. The reality is, they’ll just creep on back to your place in a day or two and start drivin’ you nuts all over again.

Listen, you can’t just pound a couple of cute little windmills into the ground and the moles’ll be gone forever as if by magic. It won’t happen.

On the Other Hand…

…TRAPPING is the sure-fire and much safer way to get rid of ’em. And there’s a simple way to trap ’em a landscaper once showed me. A way that’s been proved effective time after time after time. He learned how from a couple of farmers and an old guy who takes care of the local golf course greens. I even got some pointers from the local cemetery caretaker.

Anyways, I want you to know that regardless of what you might think or have heard…

Trapping is a piece of cake. Really nuthin’
to it. It’s natural. And best of all, it’s final!

Truth be told, it’s the approved humane and ecologically sound method. Why? Because it’s quick, reliable and certainly more merciful than slow acting poisons.

Based on my 27 years experience I’ve proved that trapping is the only positive solution. And, if I do say so myself, I’ve gotten pretty dang good at it. What’s more, I even taught my 12-year-old granddaughter, Alex, all my “tricks of the trade.” Then she went right out in the field and caught two of ’em in no time at all. All by her little self.

One thing’s for sure… if she can do it, you can do it!

Fact is, this technique of natural mole removal is as easy as falling off a horse backwards once you learn the right way. Believe me, you’re gonna to grin from ear-to-ear when you take action against those nasty little rodents once and for all. I know I did, for sure.

Awhile Back…

…I wrote down all the vital know-how I’ve amassed over the years and put everything into a handy-dandy manual that I cleverly call Grandpa’s Ultimate Mole Attack Survival Guide. In it you’ll discover every detail of my stealth-like trapping technique.

The guide reveals the why, what, when, where and how. All the important stuff you gotta have in your battle-ready arsenal to win the war against these bad boys. Everything’s explained, clear as a fresh-washed window. Step-by-easy-step.

Does it work?

You betcha it does!

And the icing on the cake is, you’ll even save a tidy $25.00 to $50.00 per mole when you catch the varmints yourself instead of paying some professional mole trapper. More importantly, you’ll feel so good knowin’ you did it yourself!

Loaded up with text, photos and drawings, the 39-page guide teaches you…

• after years of testing, which trap is the only one I now use, and why
• time-proven method to locate the ground mole’s main tunnel
• how to find exactly
where to place the trap
what to do to correctly position and set your trap
when you should set your trap (yes, there’s a right and wrong time)
how and where to set multiple traps, if need be
how to dispose of your “catch” the environmentally correct and easiest way
• along with all kinds of pro-tips and little-known technique

Here’s the thing. If you’ve been tearing your hair out over moles destroying your lawn and garden, you’ll find Grandpa’s Ultimate Mole Attack Survival Guide as valuable as your wheelbarrow. (And near as valuable as your spouse!)


Moles Can Ravage Gardens Fast

OK, I know all that may sound like a bunch of shameless “advertising bullstuff.” (Which, by the way, I detest ’bout as much as you do.) But there’s acres of proof behind what I’m telling you. And I truly don’t know how else to say it. When you get the guide, you’ll learn exactly how to fix your mole problem. Once and for all. Everything’s spelled out. It’s easy to read. Easy to follow. I promise.

Now think about this…

At this very moment, moles are silently working beneath your yard. Plotting to pop up more mounds of dirt all over the place. So, as I see it, you’ve got three ways to go.

1. You can keep on doin’ whatever you’ve been doin’ to get rid of the critters ’til the cows come home. (It won’t do any good, but you can keep spinning your wheels if you’re havin’ fun.)

2. You can ignore the problem, if you like the moonscape look. Or,

3. You can take sensible mole control action like I and the pros do. Kill ’em dead!

So if you’re finally ready to get rid of moles for good, then

Here’s How You Can…

…own a copy of Grandpa’s Ultimate Mole Attack Survival Guide right now. Nuthin’ to it. Click here to download the guide using safe ‘n secure PayPal. Then just follow a couple of easy download steps and it’ll arrive directly to your computer quicker’n a bunny after clover.

And you’ll love that it’s flat-out cheap at only 7 bucks. That way you can learn all the proved “die-and-goodbye” tips, tricks, techniques and strategies for less than a bag of good chicken feed.

Your No-Monkey-Business
Money-Back Guarantee

Right now you may be asking, “what if I try it and it don’t work for me?”

No worries. Simply tell me and your payment will be returned to you pronto. Yep, your money back. Anytime. No questions. No baloney. What’s more, you can even keep the guide as my gift just for learnin’ how to trap moles! The way I figger it is, if this ain’t for you, why pay for it?

So you see, you’ve nuthin’ to lose. BUT you have the very best shot possible at taking back your beautiful yard. You got my word on it.

Now go on out and trap a dadgum mole. (Imagine how happy you’ll feel with all them nasty little rodents gone!)

Yours for a mole-free yard,

Grandpa Brooks

>Dogs Going On Your Lawn? Brown Spots?

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Lawn brown spots cured with… tomato juice?

This green lawn is how it should look–no brown spots or disease noticeable.
A question came from a reader who was having problems with brown spots on his lawn, apparently caused by urine from his pet dogs. In response, I received an e-mail from reader Linda Biggs who wrote:

“A few years ago the ‘Rebecca’s Garden’ television program suggested adding two to three tablespoons of tomato juice to your dog’s food at every meal to avoid spotted lawns. The acid in the tomato juice counteracts the dog’s urine, resulting in no grass discoloration. I can testify the tomato juice additive works on a Lab and German Shepard, and they like the flavor. The Campbell’s brand of tomato juice features a low sodium version.”

Thanks for the tip, Linda. Maybe that will help. However, I have to say that I have personally tried different treatments for the “doggy lawn” problem but none seem to work!

If you have a landscaping problem or an idea that might help other readers, please drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org And that brings us to a quick look at some recent questions from readers…

QUESTION: “For the past three years, I have had a terrible problem with leaf spot, dollar spot etc and in the spring red thread. I have not been able to control it and it has gotten worse every year. I had a lawn service one year and have treated it myself the last two seasons. My lawn is the typical Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue. It looks great in the early spring and then the fungus begins around the first of May. This year is even worse and now my lawn has even thinned out in many areas The fungus appears worse in full sun areas. I have been putting down the Scotts Fungus Control since May and it seems to do nothing. It’s so bad, that in the early morning, the white cottony ‘tuffs’ are very noticeable on the grass. I have had two lawn care companies come out and they both mentioned the leaf spot and dollar spot, but were only interested in selling me the annual programs and fertilizer treatments. Is there a short term solution/control for the fungus I have right now and what do you suggest as a long term solution to eliminate the problem every year?” – Kim Woodruff

ANSWER: It sounds as if you have a beautiful lawn. I really think your best bet would be to go with a reputable long term lawn care business. However, I would make some stipulations as to what you expect form them. I have had a lawn like the one you are describing at one of our properties some years ago. I had grass that was all fescue from a seed called champion 6. It was at that time a blend of 6 of the award winning fescues for that year. I never had any problem with just regular maintenance. Unless you want to redo your yard I would go with professionals.

QUESTION: “We have about 300 live oak trees on our property, and almost all are covered with what I term “boles” on the leaves. Not just a few; but literally many hundreds. Do these “critters” harm the trees? Is there a cure? If so, what should we do to eradicate them?” – Len & Janice Westra

ANSWER: Any insect or beetle that is foreign to the tree will harm it. You may try some of the insecticides like Sevin or Malathion. However, before you do anything, I suggest you try checking with the agricultural extension agent in your area. If it a problem you are having then it is quite likely that someone else in your area is having it too, and the extension agent could have a solution to the problem. From your description and the picture you sent me, your “critters” could well be spider mites, but your extension agent will know for sure.

I did find a useful web site you might want to check out. It’s called “All About Oak Trees”. The web address is http://www.oak-tree.com/oak-tree-insects-and-disease.html and you click on it and go directly to it. Also, click on www.landsteward.org and find this column under the Plant Man heading. The Oak Tree site has descriptions and pictures of various insects and diseases that affect oaks.

The Plant Man is there to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org often.

>Can You Rid Your Yard and Neighborhood of Japanese Bettles Which Lay Grub Eggs?

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Japanese beetles are slightly less than a half inch long and are a shiny metallic green, said UW Extension turf and ornamental specialist Chris Williamson.

They have coppery-brown wing covers that do not entirely cover their abdomens. Newly hatched larvae are a translucent creamy white and, once feeding begins, their hindguts turn gray to black.

The grubs feed on the roots of grass and ornamentals.

Now for the specifics of what works and what doesn’t:

— Japanese beetle traps. The traps have become increasingly popular because they give people a psychological victory. Jane Homeowner finds her trap full of dead beetles and thinks she’s making a difference.

But here’s the problem:

They’re only catching a percentage of what they’re attracting. University studies have shown again and again that the traps bring in more beetles than they actually kill. Those extra beetles are mating and laying eggs in your lawn so that next year you’ll have a new crop of beetles and, possibly, new damage to your grass.

Now, if you have a “couple of acres” and want to put the traps on the back of the property, they’ll probably lure the beetles away from the ornamentals near your home, Maddox said.

— Pesticides. A variety of pesticides are labeled for use against the adult beetles.

“Controlling Japanese beetles requires a defensive approach,” Maddox said.

That means protecting specific plants or trees—instead of trying to kill every beetle in the solar system.

Why?

“The beetles will just fly in from elsewhere,” Maddox said.

That is especially true in city neighborhoods.

Only spray where the beetles are present and follow product instructions to the letter.

“Some people have noticed that the beetles tend not to return to something that’s been sprayed; it becomes unpalatable,” Maddox said.

However, no specific research has proven that phenomenon—only anecdotal evidence is available.

If you don’t have a significant number of beetles, consider handpicking the beetles and dropping them into a jar of soapy water. Beetles are attracted to beetles, so such a method only works when the populations are low.

— Systemic pesticide treatment for trees or treatment for lawn grubs.

The systemic treatment for trees is usually applied in the fall and is absorbed by the tree’s roots and helps it withstand beetle attack next year.

It’s a good defensive approach for next year, especially on valuable ornamentals, Maddox said.

Japanese beetles lay their eggs in the lawn, and grubs feed on the roots of the grass. If present in large enough numbers, the grubs can leave large brown patches on the lawn.

“Use the grub control if the grubs are killing your grass,” Maddox said.

Again, the temptation is to try to wipe out all the grubs in your lawn, even if they aren’t causing problems.

“You can kill all the grubs, but the adult beetles will just fly in from elsewhere,” Maddox repeated, this time sounding a little exasperated.

— Other methods. Biological controls such as milky spore disease and nematodes are marketed as “natural” ways to control the grubs. Although many gardeners swear by such methods, university research has shown inconsistent results.

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